From:
Ruth Murrell
11 D Cherish Court Hong Kong
rmurrell@asiaonline.net
Subject: Malapacao Memoirs Like
a lizard, basking naked in the sun, on a hardwood sun deck with unbeatable
views, I'm surrounded by breathtaking black marble cliffs similar to Yosemite
Park, but without the people. Except for sounds of birds and waves, everything
is quiet and I drink up this 'Quality of Life' that is Malapacao Island..
My resting place is a little island outcrop, I have walked to after crossing
a cute bamboo arched bridge 10 mtrs. from my cottage called Soul. Leeann
has planted more than 50 Yucca trees in the rock crevasses surrounding this
deck for additional privacy with an exotic touch.
Except for 7 hornbill in the nearby trees, I am alone, overlooking a white
sand beach shrouded in jungle. My body is covered with a thin layer of mud,
and I smell of eucalyptus. Many hibiscus flowers have been dexterously placed
around my fanny and I imagine I look lovely if somewhat strange. Soon the
mud will harden and can be massaged off, with it the dead cells. I had been
given a coconut bowl, full of local clay
and have the option to do-it-myself or have someone help me. I opt for
the former as I often indulge in this therapy all alone on this deck. Afterwards
with a wonderfully smooth skin and less visible wrinkles I feel 10 years
younger. A coral reef is calling me to explore, 20 feet below. I'd like
to search for that large colorful clam again and luxuriate in the pleasure
of swimming naked in the blue sea.
Much earlier this morning, I have joined several others do simple Tai Chi
and Yoga here in the buff. The freedom to move without restricting clothes
and to share this experience is delightful. From our high advantage point
we could also study the hornbills and kingfishers taking breakfast. In the
distance, fishermen in small dugouts are collecting their nets. Sometimes
with luck one can spot the fin of a dolphin, the head of a turtle or a small
stingray popping out of the water.
Now it's just after breakfast and the weather is cool and the light spectacular.
With a small stone I make lovely xylophone sounds from the jagged limestone
rocks. At home I am a musician and I've often taped the impressive melody
of these rocks. I am sure Gammon music started from a similar medium.
Eastward, across the water, is the thin strip of the Palawan mainland, that
separates the Sulu sea from pristine Bacuit Bay. It's a rugged green lush
canopy with a smattering of lighter upland rice fields. Hidden in this jungle
there is a windy dirt track that the locals call the "Puerto-El Nido
Highway" which is often impassable many months of the year. But now
with the SEAir flights 2 3 or 3 times a week from Manila, it's much easier
to access paradise.
A little later, without the clay and squeaky clean, I climb the eastern
cliff face, 300 mtrs away at the other end of the beach. It's a relatively
steep 400-meter up hike, takes approx. 20 minutes, and from the top, I can
see the retreat's Clubhouse directly below, intricately designed with three
round roofs to form a central high dome and the outdoor Jacuzzi on the front
balcony. Beyond, tied to their mooring buoys are two of the Retreat's three
outrigger boats used for Island Hopping, El Nido trips, airport transfers
and sometimes the long trips to Taytay, Port Barton and Sabang. Ah!! What
a breathtaking view. Like specks in the distance I can make out the two
kayaks, heading towards the shore of 'the Princess' one nautical mile away.
I know the precise distance as I make a point to swim there and sometimes
every time I visit this island When I swim, surrounded by the rays of the
sun all round I feel lighter and lighter as I drop unwanted tension and
negative emotions. This rock massive, actually called Inabuyutan
Island has an enchanting underground cave inside the rock full
of stalactites and limestone crystals. My what a stupendous view it is from
up here!
No matter how often I come I am fascinated by the beauty all around. The
water is like glass and everything seems a mirage and as if the many rugged
islands are jutting out of clouds. To the south, south/east, five minutes
away, is the quaint fishing village of Malapacao and the backbone of cliffs
with a mirad of climbing/ possibilities, that form the length of the foot
of Malapacao. The village has a little church, that doubles as a daycare,
partially funded by the retreat a dilapidated pier and an abandoned resort
project.
Malapacao, the word, means "Land of the Bigfoot" or "Foot
on the Ground". The village with its 100 odd inhabitants is in the
arch and the beautiful retreat, where I stay, is in the toes to the north.
Other cottages just like mine called Spirit, Love, Harmony, Life and Heart,
take your breath away with their simplicity and rustic open design. Everything
is handmade and finished with fine details. Tie-dyed sheets, shells stitched
into fishnet lampshades and flowers are everywhere. They are placed on your
newly made-up bed, floating in your foot bowl at the bottom of your step,
even hanging from branches inside your cottage.
Every morning I am greeted with my "Welcome to the world Call"
and a flower on my cottage step as Leeann walks by to encourage me to vacate
my beautiful bed and join her in early morning Gentle Arts,
another beautiful pleasure for stress release. The retreat is
real Garden of Eden is an absolute splendor for your eyes with the perfume
of frangipani jasmine and the Augubower lily drifting everywhere. Right
from where I lie, I can see white flowered native Jasmine-like flowers,
dropping into and floating on the water, as many of these trees are hang
over the sea.
Leeann too, is hardly ever without her flower, the red hibiscus "Gumamela"
behind her ear. Sometimes that is all she is wearing and she says she feels
fully dressed.
Now the water is really calling me to come down and dip. Its warm up here
and my mind is heady with the views. My mouth is watering thinking about
another exquisite lunch that will be served on banana leaves, under the
button tree on the beach. I gaze across the bay at the western peaks and
consider what will be my next hike in the cooler part of the afternoon,
or should I just indulge in an Ocean
Glow Body Scrub on the beach or have an Ayurvedic or Swedish massage
with more of those essential oils that allow you to drift to other places.
Maybe I'll make it a really full day, save the therapy till after dinner
and take a strenuous hike to the Southern Bay of Malapacao.
This is a delightful trail through thick forests, adjacent to the base of
the towering cliffs and is truly a climber's paradise. Again as I pass,
I would be torn between wanting to make yet another assent or to continue
for 40 minutes along this interesting trail to a pristine cove. The jungle
here comes right down to the blue sea and a white sand beach. The water
entices me to swim to the many cliff overhangs with little caves that I
can poke my head into to explore. If I continue along this rugged shoreline
I would get back to the retreat in 40 minutes.
On my way I can see hundreds of clams of every color and maybe see 6 or
more Lionfish. If I time it right when I visit this cove, I can enjoy this
area at sunset, when thousands of bats come out of the massive cave high
above, heading to the mainland for their evening forage. Alternatively,
I could just sit in my hammock on my balcony and doze, occasionally admiring
the now famous view of the Princess. This view was chosen to grace the front
cover of the 6 Edition of Lonely Planet Ah!! The decisions to be made on
holiday. Tomorrow it's the same, should I go diving or island hopping to
nearby islands, or maybe kayak up a jungle river!!!
This is my fifth time to Malapacao and it truly is pure paradise. Small,
often with only a handful of visitors, the Malapacao experience is always
interesting and well remembered but my days are always too short. Take the
dinners here for example. For a city person like me these evenings are something
very special. Again there is no sounds but the lapping of the waves. The
Retreat runs on Solar power, so there's no noisy generator. The evening
meal, called supper, is served around a small beach-fire with short candles
set in holes in the sand.
Coconut bowls containing delicious soups; guacamole, baked jackfruit seeds
and many other strange delights continue to come out of the darkness. Afterwards
Leeann may lead you into some folk singing or entice you into the water
to enjoy the phosphoresce. While strolling back through the garden, thousands
of little lights sparkle in the trees and on the cliffs showing the presence
of the lovely fireflies A day in paradise could not finish more serenely.
I am a little remorse as tomorrow is my last full day of such quality time,
till next time in paradise and I don't want to leave. I'm giving serious
thought to Leeann's offer of positions for volunteers. Its very tempting
- half-day work in exchange for accommodation and food. Could I handle the
simple life far away from a cell phone and other forms of modern-day culture
and become an anti-work rat?
Right now on the top of this gorgeous mountain, I could say easily "yes
it would be wonderful". Would I think the same once I return to the
real world and get back into the stress of my normal life? What a dilemma
to wrestle with. How to fit such a Quality of Life as is found at a private
island called Malaoacao, Palawan, more into my lifestyle? ...Ruth Murrell |
